8/30/2023 0 Comments 60s space age jewelry fashion![]() Farnham was equally adept at designing within the all-white aesthetic of diamonds and platinum, so popular at the turn of the century. Farnham captured the delicacy and beauty of each species, breathing life into them with subtly colored enamels and a sprinkling of precious stones (Fig. At the time, live orchids were rare and costly specimens that few could afford as jewelry, they were even more rarified. was George Paulding Farnham, who created a series of orchid brooches that caused a sensation at the Exposition Universelle in Paris of 1889. One of the figures who led the changes in jewelry design and materials at Tiffany & Co. Grant, the 18th president of the United States, the necklace was elegant, if sober, as would have been fitting for a woman in her seventies (Fig. Owned by Julia Dent Grant (1826–1902), widow of Ulysses S. Similarly, diamonds play a central role in an impressive platinum and gold graduated link necklace, originally given a dual purpose with a tiara fitting, now lost. ![]() By 1894, when his daughter married into an old New England family, Kemp was able to present her with a diamond tiara (Fig. Tiffany’s son, Louis Comfort Tiffany, Lockwood De Forest, Candace Wheeler, and Samuel Colman. Kemp’s home on Fifth Avenue was decorated in the aesthetic style by Associated Artists, the interior design firm founded by C. He emigrated from Ireland with his widowed mother and five siblings in 1830 by 1858 he was leading a major pharmaceutical firm. Her father, George Kemp, exemplifies the American success stories of the era. Dietz.ĭiamonds formed a major portion of Tiffany & Co.’s sales, as evidenced by one of the only known surviving tiaras by the firm, made for the 1894 wedding of Julia Kemp. Platinum, gold, diamonds.Ĭollection of Dr. Bidding for themselves and on behalf of private clients, the firm successfully won one-third of the lots, more than any other competitor.įig. ![]() Profiting a second time from France’s changing aristocratic fortunes, Tiffany actively participated in the sale of the French Crown jewels in 1887. Satellite galleries in Paris (1850) and London (1872) served Americans traveling abroad as well as Europeans who began to appreciate the Tiffany name. To garner attention, the firm participated in expositions such as the Philadelphia Centennial in 1876, where they received awards for their silver and jewelry. He moved the shop northward several times, following the residential patterns of his clientele. After Tiffany assumed control of the firm in 1853, he renamed it Tiffany & Co. In 1848, during the overthrow of French King Louis Philippe I, jewelry purchased from fleeing aristocrats led to Tiffany’s fast-rising reputation as a purveyor of important gemstones. In 1837, Charles Lewis Tiffany and John Burnett Young established a small fancy goods store at 259 Broadway and the business soon expanded to include imported jewelry. Some enterprising jewelers left their historic locations in lower Manhattan and moved uptown in order to be closer to their patrons. Many attended the opera simply to glimpse society women wearing their newest jewelry purchases in public a voyeurism easily achieved with a pair of opera glasses (Fig. ![]() Purchases of jewelry were secondary to wearing them, as visitors to New York’s Metropolitan Opera often discovered, for sparkling ornaments made actors out of their owners and created brilliant performances that sometimes outshone those taking place on stage. In so doing, they ushered in the first truly great era of American jewelry. While many New Yorkers purchased jewelry abroad during their travels, more began to avail themselves of jewelry made in New York, where Gilded Age fortunes led jewelers to create their best works, using the most extravagant materials. For the newly rich, as well as the members of old New York society, the grand homes they began to build in the farther reaches of Fifth Avenue required costly, magnificent interiors and, by extension, equally refined dress and jewelry for stylish entertaining. By 1892, one-third of the country’s millionaires resided in Manhattan. ![]() New York City was the epicenter for those involved in such activities. In the decades following the Civil War, vast sums of money were made in mining, railroads, manufacturing, finance, and commerce. This article was originally published in the Autumn 2015 issue of Antiques & Fine Art magazine. Daniel Guggenheim).Ĭourtesy of the Museum of the City of New York gift of Roger M. 1: Unknown, probably French, Opera glasses, ca. ![]()
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